MY ACCOUNT

June 1

Hi mum,
 

This last week I’ve been experimenting with sauces and condiments. I remember we used to do a lot of local, savory, pickled items on the truck, which were always a hit – toppings always seem to be! If I remember correctly, I think we’d done zucchini, carrot, mango, onion, cabbage, bell pepper, and apple. The apple one always intrigued me, because while the natural sweetness of the fruit was worn down by the salt and vinegar, the aroma of the apple seemed to bring a touch of sweetness just through memory-flavor association.

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But what I’m most excited about right now is our jalapeno pickle recipe, which I’ve been playing around with. I know that one is traditionally very simple - basic salty and sour and spicy - because the purpose of it was to mix it with some of our sweet salsas (watermelon – YUM!), but Nora suggested adding a sweet element directly to the jalapeno pickle so that it could stand out on its own.

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So I added caramelized molasses sugar to it, and… it is unbelievable. The sugar actually caramelizes ON the jalapenos, because you have to cook it all together, and it gives it a slight burnt-sugar crunch. Not all of the sugar dissolves into the vinegar, which I love, because it adds that characteristic crystalized texture that raw sugar lends, while still developing the warm flavor of burnt, caramelized sugar.

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We tried the recipe with white sugar, too, and it can easily be subbed for the brown sugar, but the brown has the moisture and depth of the molasses flavor that I think works really well with the spice of the jalapenos.

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I also added a little chipotle powder because the smoked jalapeno seasoning really accentuates the sweet and spicy flavors of the pickle, and then I toned down the salt in the pickle itself because the texture and taste really get a better punch from adding a sprinkle of crunchy maldon salt after serving the pickle.

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As it turns out, Jenna can’t tolerate much spiciness. She did try the final test batch, and appreciated that the sugar toned down the heat, but because of the fresh jalapenos in this, the heat still overwhelmed her. “A good red wine is as spicy as it gets for me!” she rasped, coughing as the spice hit the back of her throat.

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“Speaking of which,” she added, taking a sip of milk to clear the heat. “How about joining me and the girls for a drink this weekend?”

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As I was in the middle of canning the pickle, I spared a quick glance at Jenna, not sure what to say, before returning my attention to the task at hand. I could feel my shoulders tensing up.

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“You’ve got a friend now,” Jenna added gently. “And you won’t be there alone. And we can leave after one drink. It’s just a chance for you to get out there a bit.”

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I kept my head down, my gaze focused on the jars as I filled them with the candied jalapenos. The syrup was thickening, sticking to the mouth of the pot, reluctant to leave. I prodded at it with my spatula, loosening the spicy caramel from the lip of the pot until the momentum of the remaining pickle pushed it out and into the last jar.

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“I know,” I finally answered. I knew Jenna was thinking of what I’d told her about my not having had friends when I was growing up, maybe even feeling bad for me. I wasn’t sure what to say to her. I took a deep breath.

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“And I appreciate the offer,” I said after a pause, quickly smiling at Jenna before turning to the sink to soak the sticky pot.

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“So, you’ll come?” Jenna asked hopefully.

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“Actually, I think I’m working this weekend,” I blurted out unexpectedly. Why did I say that?! I hadn’t actually made up my mind about Jenna’s invitation before those words escaped my mouth.

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I half expected Jenna would push me to join them after I was done with work, but instead she said,
“Oh, ok,” and thanked me for the jar of candied jalapenos I’d packed for Jerry. Apparently, he loves spicy foods, and experiments far too regularly with unique condiments, according to Jenna. She’s complained more than once about the multitude of hot sauces and assorted jars that occupy her fridge but hasn’t been able to break him of the habit of buying a new thing on every trip to the grocery store.

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“At least I know this one won’t sit around,” she said, brandishing the jar. “He’ll love it!”

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I suspect this pickle will be fantastic with an ooey-gooey grilled cheese, and I have the perfect recipe to work on next!

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For now, here’s the candied jalapenos recipe.

 

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Love,

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Beatrix

 

 

Candied Jalapenos

 

4 lbs fresh jalapenos

2 lbs onions

1/2 cup vinegar

1/2 cup water

6-8 cups sugar

2 tbsp mustard seed

1 tsp turmeric

1 tbsp garlic powder

1 tbsp chipotle powder or smoked paprika (optional)

 

1. Slice jalapenos (wear gloves!), and dice onions.

2. Place jalapenos and onions in a pot with water and vinegar, and bring to a boil. Once liquids reach boil, cover pot and reduce heat to simmer until peppers and onions are tender – about 10 minutes.

3. Pour off most of the water vinegar mixture (about 95%), add sugar and spices, and bring to 117 F.

4. Place boiling mixture into sterile, heat-resistant glass jars, leaving 1/4 inch at the top. If using metal lids, cap after pouring. If using plastic lids, wait until contents are completely cool before capping.